This season is all about fresh, new starts, and the styles coming from our top designers, some of them former drug addicts and many current drug addicts, reflect that like a frozen lake. The colors are obscure, from inconsistently-blended lots that you’ve certainly never seen before. The lines defy symmetry and asymmetry to instead embrace an entirely new aesthetic one critic described as “crippled fawn.”
Designer Marc Lauren favors us with a spirited line of faux-polyester shirts and skirts ($75-$150) so intricate and complicated, you’ll be budgeting an extra 30 minutes when getting dressed (training class $50, Bloomingdales).
Lauren’s young protégée, Ralph Jacobs, offers a more casual looking, but no less spatially-demanding, line of partially unraveled knit separates ($35-$85). He first introduced the collection with models finishing rows on their own sweaters, bikinis and headbands on the catwalk (knitting how-to book, $40).
Calvin Westwood has chosen to focus his oeuvre on the color palette, and his striking amass of blouses inspired by the lifecycle of the Scottish artichoke is sure to be completely impossible to match with anything in your closet. Westwood originally showed the tops matched with flared pants dyed to evoke the Soviet Union in 1982, but fully acknowledged that his pairing doesn’t really work.
Vera McCartney, another color artiste with a more experimental flair, created her pieces using extracts of toxic chemicals and herbs, dyed to coordinate with the rashes and hives expected to bloom on her wearers. The 3-piece “Bee Sting Suit” ($675), in light lavender with delicate striped embroidery, is meant to be worn by women who break out in pinkish hives of 2-3mm in diameter (Allergy skin test plus asbestos screening, $150, at Macy’s Chemist Counter).
Every season the designers work hard to present a guiding theme in their work. This year, the proliferation of unmatchable, unwearable, and potentially lethal cloth-based items brings us one that is clear and striking: “Indifference: Much More Than the Opposite of Love.” (my hump my hump my hump)
Designer Marc Lauren favors us with a spirited line of faux-polyester shirts and skirts ($75-$150) so intricate and complicated, you’ll be budgeting an extra 30 minutes when getting dressed (training class $50, Bloomingdales).
Lauren’s young protégée, Ralph Jacobs, offers a more casual looking, but no less spatially-demanding, line of partially unraveled knit separates ($35-$85). He first introduced the collection with models finishing rows on their own sweaters, bikinis and headbands on the catwalk (knitting how-to book, $40).
Calvin Westwood has chosen to focus his oeuvre on the color palette, and his striking amass of blouses inspired by the lifecycle of the Scottish artichoke is sure to be completely impossible to match with anything in your closet. Westwood originally showed the tops matched with flared pants dyed to evoke the Soviet Union in 1982, but fully acknowledged that his pairing doesn’t really work.
Vera McCartney, another color artiste with a more experimental flair, created her pieces using extracts of toxic chemicals and herbs, dyed to coordinate with the rashes and hives expected to bloom on her wearers. The 3-piece “Bee Sting Suit” ($675), in light lavender with delicate striped embroidery, is meant to be worn by women who break out in pinkish hives of 2-3mm in diameter (Allergy skin test plus asbestos screening, $150, at Macy’s Chemist Counter).
Every season the designers work hard to present a guiding theme in their work. This year, the proliferation of unmatchable, unwearable, and potentially lethal cloth-based items brings us one that is clear and striking: “Indifference: Much More Than the Opposite of Love.” (my hump my hump my hump)
1 comment:
a "crippled fawn" also known as "sexy walk" in Japan.
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